Collio
2010

In the second edition at Cook It Raw! Winter Was Hard, the focus sharpened and the full meaning of the term ‘raw’ — ‘uncooked’, but also ‘strong, wild and primitive’ — were tested.

In the frigid month of January, the chefs were taken deep into the Collio hills, in the top corner of Italy’s north-eastern Friuli Venezia Giulia region, on the border with Slovenia. In this social melting-pot, Cook It Raw! Winter Was Hard explored the links between cultures and countries.
The ingredients

This is list of herbs and plants that can be found in January, weather permitting, including the part of the plant that is available. Many of these are in dialect names, Latin and English whenever possible. * Signifies cultivated, not wild:

Wild herbs

Achillea (yarrow) folium/leaves
Alliaria petiolata (garlic mustard) folium/leaves
Arctium lappa (bardana) (greater burdock) radix/root
Armoracia rusticana (kren) (horseradish) getti giovani/young shoots, root
Brassica (senape riccio) (curly-leaf mustard) folium/leaves*
Brassica (senape rosso)(Chinese red mustard leaf) folium/leaves*
Capsella bursa-pastoris (shepherd’s purse) rosette basali/leaf rosette
Cardamine hyrsuta (billeri) (hairy bittercress, hoary bitter cress, land cress) rosette basali/leaf rosette
Centaurea nigrescens (lesser knapweed, black knapweed) foglie/leaves
Equisetum arvense (horsetail) getti giovani/young shoots
Echium vulgare (viper’s bugloss) folium/leaves
Erodium cicutarium (redstem filaree, stork’s bill) folium/leaves
Galinsoga parviflora (in the daisy family, gallant soldiers) folium/leaves
Lamium album (white deadnettle) folium/leaves)
Malva officinalis (mallow) folium/leaves
Malva verticillata (musk mallow) (donghàncài) folium leaves*
Mentha canariensis (wild mint) folium/leaves
Mespilus germanica (nespolo) (nèfle; common medlar) fructus/fruit
Muscari comosum (lampascione o cipollaccio col fiocco) (tassel hyacinth, tufted grape hyacinth, edible Muscari) bulbi/bulb
Oenothera (evening primrose) folium, radix/leaves, root
piantaggine-folium
Primula (primrose) folium, flos, radix/leaves, flowers, root
Ranunculus ficaria (favagello) (lesser celandine) folium/leaves
Rumex acetosa (garden sorrel) folium/leaves
Rumex crispus (curled dock or sorrel) folium/leaves
Rumex scutatus (French sorrel or dock) folium/leaves
Rumex obtusifolius (broad-leaf dock, bitter dock) folium/leaves
Silene vulgaris Garcke o gonfia (sclopit, ammazzamogli) (bladder campion) folium/leaves
Taraxacum officinale (tarassaco) (pissenlit; dandelion) radix/root
Stellaria media (centocchio) (common chickweed, winterweed) folium/leaves
Tragopogon (barba di becco) (salsify or goatsbeard) radix/root
Other herbs that should be available in January:
Sage, rosemary, thyme, erba luigia (Lippia citriodora Kunth, lemon verbena, verveine), wild marjoram
Wild rose hips
Plants and Vegetables available in Winter:
Apples: local varieties, including mela seuka
Cabbages, white, red, and others
Carob flour
Chestnuts, dried, smoked and ground into flour
Flours: including: chestnut, buckwheat, rye, carob
‘Kren’ (horseradish, or the mittel-European root of choice) (Amoracia rusticana)
‘Matavilz’, corn salad or gallinella (valerianella), winter salad
Radicchio Rosa di Gorizia (a locally protected and unique variety of radicchio, best after the first two frosts)
Oils: pumpkin, olive
Other winter radicchio varieties include the locally termed ‘ladrich cul pok’
Pears, including small winter pears called ‘petorai’
Persimmon (kaki)
Polenta, white and yellow
Rapa, or turnip, from which the very popular Friuli accompaniment to meat is made, la brovada (pickled turnip) is made
La brovada (pickled turnips, ubiquitous winter favourite in Friuli)
Rapa bianca, white turnip, is eaten raw or sautéed
Rapa ribizzata, fiery, very strong flavoured turnip, eaten raw
Seeds: black poppy, pumpkin
Tarragon-like ‘pehtran’ has sweet notes and is also used for desserts
Topinambur, wild Jerusalem artichoke, root
Vinacce, wine-soaked grape residues, used to store and season cheeses and to make grappa

Winter Ingredients:

It’s end of may so you will have most of the things you will see in France, like asparagus, green peas, various salads and herbs, young onions, carrots etc etc.

Meats

Beef
Boar (cinghiale)
Hare
Game birds, including: wild duck (Germano reale, Anas platyrhyncos), fischione (wild duck, Anas penelope), alzavola (wild duck, Anas crecca), folaga (Eurasian coot, Fulica atra), codone (wild duck, Anas acuta), etc
Pork in all its parts as it is the season of the pig butchering and most families still have a pig or two they fatten each year to make salumi and hams
Venison
All know normal animal is available, pork, cow etc. in every cut needed. Chicken is not of the highest quality. You also have season for small summer deer.

Fish

Courtyard animals: rabbit, chicken

Fish, wild sea fish and shellfish:
Angudelle ‘rebalta vapori’ (atherines)
Canestrelli (pilgrim scallops)
Eel (anguilla)
Fasolari (cockles)
Sea bass (branzino)
Sole (sogliole di Grado)
Turbot (Rombo chiodato)
Farmed Fish:
Cefali or Volpine (grey mullet)
Dairy:
Ewe’s milk, ricotta and cheeses (pecorino)
Cow’s milk, ricotta and cheeses
Goat’s milk, ricotta and cheeses

Wine list:

BRUMAT LUCIO – Rosa di Gorizia / previsto il brulè
DINNER SUBIDA – Tercic (planta) / Caccese (malvasia) / Zuani (collio bianco)/ Keber R. (bianco vecchio) / Primosic (ribolla gialla) / Colle Duga (tocai) / Livon (picolit)
CASONI – (boreto) Raccaro (tocai) / Terpin (ribolla gialla) / Castellada (bianco uvaggio)/ Branko (pinot grigio)
ANDRONA – Venica (tocai) / Koser (fosarin) / Princic R. (bratinis)/ Livio /Felluga (rosenplaz) MANFERRARI

Photographs: Per Anders Jorgensen




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